Pineapple, Pizza, and a slice of diplomacy

A large section of the Italian people is outraged that Gino Sorbillo, a pizza master, has dared to put pineapple slices on a pizza. Italy is the country where pizzas originated but they have by now spread the world over. The Italians though, it is apparent, from the Sorbillo controversy take their pizza traditions very seriously. And traditions are to be respected; hence, the debate if even a pizza master can drastically depart from tradition. On his part Sorbillo is asserting that some people are opposing him because they are unaware of “new ingredients” or of new ways of cooking traditional dishes. He feels that their attitude is unjustified.

This writer’s experience of diplomacy taught him value of good food as an instrument of diplomacy but also the pride that peoples take in their cuisines. A good table, attractively set, and delicious food opens up hearts and minds and often—as diplomats want—loosen tongues, even if ever so slightly. But through, those moments of tongues slipping, diplomats gain insights into the thinking of their guests, who are often, key decision makers or hold positions of power and influence. That is why diplomats and their spouses spend so much time and effort on dinners and lunches and receptions. These are arenas of their work and not, as many consider, simply places where diplomats enjoy themselves, often at taxpayers’ expense! From the significance of food in diplomacy it would be now appropriate to move to the importance that some peoples attach to their culinary traditions.

There is little doubt that the French take great pride in their food. They take their food seriously and ordinary families also take care in preparing their meals. If this is so for people in general then on occasions of state the French take extraordinary steps in the preparation of menus for their guests. They ensure that while the sensitivities of the guests are taken into account, the best of French food, if necessary, through adapting dishes, are offered. The French also place a premium on elegant presentation. Indeed, the modern emphasis that food must not only cater to the senses of taste and smell but to the sense of sight has perhaps its beginnings, as far as Europe is concerned, in France.

If the French are, at one end of the spectrum of food, the British are at the other. Traditional British food was known for its blandness and lack of appeal. Certainly, neither the British common people nor the elites have been known to lavish any great care on food. It has not been one of the strengths of the British. Indeed, for many Britishers attention to food was considered foreign foppery to be looked down upon. In recent decades this has changed a bit though the dreadful ‘chicken tikka masala’ seems to have become the island country’s national dish.

The Asian continent is rich in its national cuisines. Some have achieved international fame. Among them are the Chinese and that of Thailand. China has a large variety of different forms of cooking. That is only natural for a country of its size and population. The Chinese people take pride in their food and its presentation. Chinese food has also spread to other parts of the world. Wherever it has gone it has been adapted so much to local tastes that often the Chinese do not recognize it as their own. An Indian External Affairs Ministry anecdote, perhaps apocryphal, is relevant in this context. An Indian official decided to host a visiting Chinese delegation to a meal in a well-known ‘Chinese’ restaurant in a prominent Delhi hotel. After the meal the Chinese guests thanked their host for an excellent ‘Indian’ meal!

In recent years the global popularity of Thai food has also grown. Thai cuisine places special focus on presentation and on a balance of tastes. Perhaps no people are able to cut fruit with the finesse and beauty as the Thai. For them it is an art form. Thai street food too is especially good.

India’s culinary traditions are old, diverse and rich. With vast regional variations they are second to none in the world. They have evolved over the centuries with the fusion of the food brought in by those who came and settled in this country. We often take it for granted that the food that we consider today as Indian food was always so. It was not. Thus, red pepper, potatoes, tomatoes, guavas, pineapples, custard apples were all brought in by the Portuguese from South America. Today, in large areas of the country tomatoes, potatoes and of course red pepper—to spice up food—are essential food items. And, Indian food is known for being ‘hot’ because of a liberal use of red pepper. Of course, black pepper and other spices were grown in India from earlier times and it is for black pepper that the Europeans came to India first.

Each region of India is justly proud of its culinary traditions. This writers’ ancestors came from Kashmir and settled in the plains of northern part of the country more than two hundred years ago. A small community of similar families of Kashmiri origin were also settled in the cities of north India. This community maintained a large part of the culinary tradition of their ancestors and like all Kashmiri Pandits abjured the use of onions and garlic in their non-vegetarian preparations. Like other communities this small community is proud of its food traditions.

It is good that Indian food, in its different variants, is making its mark in the world but unlike the Italians it is not averse to experimentation and adaptation.