With global compliance, Kashmir handicrafts aim to see export revival

Srinagar, Oct 24: The 50 per cent tariff imposed by the US President Donald Trump has already dealt a blow to the export of handicrafts from Kashmir to the US, which are now heavily taxed. However, in the backdrop of tariffs and a subsequent global trade uncertainty, a key trend has emerged in the form of stringent regulation over import of goods in some leading markets.

Although handicrafts from Kashmir, which make way to overseas markets, have of late witnessed signs of revival, after a freefall in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic outbreak, there are certain recent global regulations that have put exporters of Kashmir handicrafts on tenterhooks. President of the Kashmir Chamber of Commerce and Industries (KCCI), Javed Tenga said that after the setback suffered due to the levy of huge tariffs by the US, it becomes imminent for Kashmir handicrafts to explore new potential markets. In the same breath, Tenga expressed concern that alternative markets such as Europe, has tightened sustainability laws on all goods.

“Markets such as Germany, France and Italy are quite particular on the eco-friendly nature of imported products. Europe as a whole is coming down hard on sustainability claims of product makers, a practice which is often referred to as greenwashing,” said Tenga.

“Handicrafts imported by these European Union nations are no exception. Any exporter, regardless of whether he exports shawls, paper mache or carpets has to supply products which are in-sync with the quality control norms in these countries,” he added.

Notably, Australia has strict biosecurity customs laws, which puts the traveller influx as well as supply of goods to this oceanic country under a strict monitoring. Similarly, the U.S market apart from reducing competitiveness of goods such as Kashmiri handicrafts is also strict on supply of duplicates, also referred to as “dupes”.

Parvez Bhat, President of Artisans Rehabilitation Forum said although handicraft exports have significantly decreased during the last five years since Covid-19 outbreak, efforts are being made for a revival. Bhat said a new-age and hi-tech facility has been set up at the government-run Craft Development Institute (CDI) where effective and eco-friendly dying of products is done. He said handicrafts from Kashmir use azo free dyes, which are not harmful and allowed in all countries. These dyes are synthetic and produced using alternative chemical processes that avoid the use of azo compounds.

“At the CDI facility, dying is done with a process which meets the market requirement in terms of colour fastness upto 40 per cent and dyes take place with necessary certification,” said Bhat.

He said the demographic advantage Kashmir holds in handicraft production is that most of the carpet manufacturing and other intricate crafts requires the expertise of seasoned craftsmen, hence the role of child labour does is completely ruled out.

“There has been an erosion of the overseas market for Kashmir handicrafts but with the grace of Almighty, our craftsmanship is held with high regard in the US, Europe and other trade hubs globally,” said Bhat. He said the cottage-based industry set-up of Kashmiri handicrafts is a well-recognised aspect that helps its marketing in product-sensitive markets such as Europe, US, South-East Asia and the Gulf.

Expressing optimism for a revival of Kashmir handicraft exports, Tenga says there is a need to explore new markets after the US has levied tariffs. He said it is imperative that during the promotions and trade expos, handicraft exporters from Kashmir proactively do marketing of their products.

“At the buyer-seller meets, the focus is no longer limited to product pricing. There are quite a lot of aspects ranging from how the production of the handicraft is creating livelihoods and many other nuances that are closely viewed,” Tenga said. He said high import duty on courier service to the US has also come a blow to very small exporters who were sending their goods through these services.