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Where Fear Meets Triumph

We embarked on the perilous journey down to Gumbar Valley, our hearts filled with hope and trust
05:00 AM Aug 23, 2024 IST | Riyaz Kazmi
where fear meets triumph
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In weal and woe, our unwavering unity and unbreakable bond as a close-knit family empower us to conquer challenges with unrelenting enthusiasm, leading us to remarkable achievements. Our friendships are built on a deep understanding, accepting each other's fears and flaws, and offering unconditional support in times of need.

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Together, we embrace life's joys and sorrows without regrets or reservations. Our trekking companions, in particular, become lifelong friends and a constant source of strength and comfort. With them, we explore breathtaking landscapes, achieve our ambitious goals, and create unforgettable stories of adventure and admiration. They are the ones who make our journey truly remarkable.

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As the night's darkness began to fade, we set out on a crisp, pre-dawn adventure on August 11, 2024, bound for the breathtaking Gumbarsar and Handilsar lakes. Departing at 4:30 a.m., we arrived in the charming Kullan village in Ganderbal, where the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape exceeded our expectations.

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The perfect start to our day, we embarked on our trek, accompanied by a group of fearless local women who were gathering wood from the nearby forest. Notably, one of them was related to the late Shakeel Ahmad, a courageous tourist guide who had tragically lost his life saving a tourist in Hamvas Pahalgam. The anecdotes revealed the exceptional values he was raised with, leaving a lasting impression on us as we began our journey.

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After bidding farewell, we embarked on our journey, veering right into the forest. A leisurely 30-minute walk led us to the picturesque Zevan meadow, where we paused to savor morning tea and prepare for the trek ahead. The warm brew invigorated us, making the subsequent hike feel effortless.

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As we ascended, the breathtaking panorama unfolded: winding roads, glistening streams, and majestic mountain peaks standing sentinel. Further on, the Gumbar Valley revealed itself, a vast expanse of emerald green, crisscrossed by a crystal-clear stream. This serene haven felt like a slice of paradise, offering an idyllic setting for an unforgettable camping experience. The tranquility and natural beauty rejuvenated us, washing away the stresses of city life.

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Our time here was a digital detox, a balm for body and soul. Refreshed and revitalized, we pressed on towards the formidable Gumbar Pass, the final obstacle on our path to destination.

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With dark clouds looming ominously overhead, threatening to unleash a downpour at any moment, we hastened our pace, finding ourselves in a precarious situation at the formidable Gumbar Gali. This treacherous passage presented a daunting challenge: a steep, rocky wall with jagged edges, made even more hazardous by the rain's slickness.

The absence of secure handholds made every step a heart-stopping gamble, as a single misstep could have disastrous consequences.This pass, situated at an altitude of 3900 meters, forms the rugged divide between the Sindh and Lidder Valleys. Undaunted, we navigated this notorious pass with discipline and precision, overcoming the challenges it posed.Miraculously, we all managed to navigate this perilsome pass without incident, our relief palpable as we reached the top, shaken but triumphant.

The relentless rain soaked us to the bone, but our determination remained unshaken. Finally, at 12:45, we arrived at the breathtaking Gumbarsar Lake(Alt:3860 Mts),capturing the ephemeral moments in our cameras. Our next destination was the equally stunning Handilsar Lake(Atl:3660 Mts) which proved to be well worth the arduous journey.

After a quick lunch and discussion on the challenging trail ahead, we decided to explore Hapatsar. We began our ascent towards Rohil Top, elevation 4221 meters, but the unpredictable weather had other plans. Suddenly, dense clouds enveloped us, reducing visibility to almost zero. Just 300 meters shy of Hapatsar, we realized the stars were not aligned in our favor.

With faith in the mercy of Allah SWT, we collectively decided to descend via a nearby mountain shoulder, despite the daunting prospect of a treacherous, rocky route. United in our resolve, we embarked on the perilous journey down to Gumbar Valley, our hearts filled with hope and trust.

Despite the rain storm, we pressed our luck and ventured through the treacherous terrain, navigating slippery scree, icy streams, and snow-covered glaciers. The journey was daunting, and at times, we felt like we were walking into the unknown, but as the dark clouds began to clear, our spirits soared when we caught a glimpse of the breathtaking Gumbar Valley.

Overjoyed and ecstatic, we made our way towards the valley, where we relaxed for half an hour, savoring the delicious salad prepared by our team leader, Bilal Beigh. We shared a hearty laugh, reliving the challenges we had overcome.

After spending an incredible time in the breathtaking Gumbar Valley, surrounded by nature's splendor and serenity, we reluctantly bid farewell to this enchanting destination. The memories of our adventures, the camaraderie, and the awe-inspiring landscapes will forever be etched in our hearts. The experience was truly unforgettable, and we left with a deep sense of fulfillment and a yearning to return to this natural paradise.

We embarked on the final leg of our journey, navigating through the dense forest in pitch darkness. The darkness was palpable, but our determination and teamwork guided us forward. It took us another hour of careful trekking, but we finally emerged from the forest and reached the welcoming village of Kullan, safe and sound. The sense of accomplishment and relief was overwhelming, as we had successfully completed our arduous trek.

The trek's statistics are a testament to our endurance: a total distance of 26 kilometers (to and fro). Max. Elevation: 4221 meters, Elev Gain: 2190 m

In retrospect, this remarkable feat would not have been possible without the unwavering support and patience of our team leaders - Kota Zahid, Bilal Beigh.Together, as a close-knit family of friends, we had conquered the impossible, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Take Home Message:

To those seeking to embark on this adventure via Gumbar Pass, heed this warning: only attempt it under the expert guidance of seasoned trekkers and carefully assess the weather forecast beforehand. The unpredictable terrain and harsh weather conditions demand respect and preparation. Don't underestimate the challenge - prioritize safety and wisdom to ensure a successful and enjoyable journey. With proper planning and guidance, the breathtaking beauty of Gumbarsar and Handilsar lakes awaits!

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