The Story of Baba Rishi

Kashimiriyat is a term which describes the century’s old tradition of blending the indigenous cultures living harmoniously for centuries in the valley. Mutual respect for different religions is the hallmark of it.

This paradise on earth, owes a lot of its charm to the traditions set in practice by the Rishis. Sheikh Noor-ud-Din, popularly known as Nund Rishi was one of the first Sufi saints who along with the Shaivite yogini Lal Ded denounced the orthodox religious practices and contributed immensely towards it.  The teachings of Nund Rishi affectionately also called “Alamdar-e-Kashmir” spread systematically all around the valley.

The word Rishi, however, always refers to Payam Uddin Baba Rishi who was a disciple of Baba Zain ud Din who had finally settled down in Aishmuqam on way to the picturesque Pahalgam. The teachings of these Sufis and Rishis in the form of verses from the holy Quran has also contributed significantly to the spread of Islam in Kashmir.

Baba Rishi’s abode is located 8 kilometres from Tangmarg (meadow of pears) a town 38 kms from Srinagar. The place comes as a detour on the road to Gulmarg. It is the well-known Sufi shrine of Baba Payam Uddin Rishi. Baba Rishi was born in 1441 CE to a nobleman, a minister of the contemporary ruler at Chander-nau-gaon in the region of Lar which is near the Ganderbal town of today.

Payam Ud Din himself was a minister and a trusted man of Zain ul Abidin (Budshah) the 8^th Sultan of Kashmir. Initially he lived an easy life of luxury but always liked the company of sages and sought their blessings. As the legend goes, he was travelling on a horseback when he saw a row of ants working hard carrying specks of grain to their anthills.

These creatures store this food in preparation of a harsh winter. This made Baba realize that while these tiny creatures were worried about their future, he had not thought about what comes to him after death.

This incident made him give up his post from the Durbar and all his worldly belongings. He then came to Baba Shukuruddin, a disciple of Nund Rishi and spent two years with him getting trained for leading a Sufi’s life. Following this he was sent to Baba Zainuddin at Aishmuqam. After spending a few years there on the instructions of Baba Zainuddin he moved to a small village of Ramboh.

The place was inhabited by immoral and bad charactered men, who objected to his coming there. Baba Payam Ud Din counselled them and converted them to become good humans. He spent rest of his life near a Dargah already existing there. He helped people there and preached Islam for inner purity of the hearts.

This was the land of flowers and scenic beauty and pure air with a very soothing aroma. He is said to have performed several miracles there. These included bringing the Dargah which was at a difficult to reach elevation to a lower altitude, making it easily accessible to devotees using his mystical power.

Baba Rishi also built a kitchen with a daan (typical Kashmiri earthenware Chula) for cooking food in earthen ware vessels. People from all over the valley used to go there and plaster the daan and offer sacrifices and cook food.

This was distributed to the Langar (free eating place for public) for people visiting that place. This practice is still followed. It is also believed that childless couples are blessed with a progeny after praying there. In addition, people go there and tie knots inside the shrine around the sanctum sanctorum (Dashei in Kashmiri) and make a wish, which according to believers is always granted.

Baba Payauddin left for his heavenly abode on 3 Zil Haj 889 Hijri (30^th December 1484) and was buried at the Ziyarat which as seen today is a three-storey monument built in a Mughal and Persian style with a big minaret.

Inside the shrine is Noor Khwan where the grave of Sufi saint lies. It is covered with a silken green cloth with writings from the holy Quran as embroideries. The Noor Khwan is made of glass and wood carvings. The Urs or the anniversary of Baba Payam Uddin Rishi, is observed annually on this date.

On 2 September 1989 the 300 years old shrine was gutted under mysterious circumstances. The fire started from the Daan and spread towards the shrine. It has since been rebuilt by the Auqaf and the state administration. Fires in shrines in Kashmir are always regarded as a bad omen heralding a calamity.

Coincidentally It is around the same time when the valley went into a turmoil of militancy, when everybody suffered badly. This ultimately led to a mass migration of Kashmiri Pundits out of the valley to Jammu and other parts of India.

Kashmir valley has never been the same after that. The beauty of Kashmir and our rich history need the messages of our revered Babas and Rishis to be heeded to and make us better human beings and always remember Kashmiriyat.

Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation