The Sacred Walnut
During my last visit to Srinagar, while returning from a stroll late in the evening, my father called me and reminded me to get walnuts with shells on for the forthcoming Shivaratri, which falls in the last week of this month (26th February). I could get them from my neighbors, since I was leaving for Delhi early morning the next day.
Walnut is a very important part of Kashmiri pandit heritage and customs. During the Shiv Ratri it is an essential part of the “Vatuk Pooja”, performed during this most important Pandit festival. Walnuts with shells are soaked in water in a brass pitcher for 3 days towards the end of the three weeks of pooja. These are then distributed to neighbours and friends as a Prasad along with bread made of rice atta (tomlae chot)
Besides this, walnut is an essential part of the Thali (metallic plate) which has several articles and essential things like rice, roti, pen, paper, Jantari (new calendar, almanac) which is prepared at the beginning of Spring (Sonth), 14th March this year, and the Kashmiri New year (Navreh) on 29th March 2025. In fact, it is a part of all the Havans which Pandits perform. Walnuts are also sent through the bride to her in-laws when she goes to her husband’s place along with bakery products like Chot (baked bread).
Walnut tree as per the Kashmir’s historical records is an indigenous tree. According to the Rajtarangni (A historical book on the Kings of Kashmir and North India of ancient times) the fruit culture which included walnuts dates back to 1000 BC during the rule of King Nara. During the period of King Lalitaditya (700 AD) and Harsha (1089 AD) the fruit culture received lot of boost. It is, however, surprising that its description in Mughal documents like Jahangir Nama (Tuzuk-I-Jahangiri) is conspicuous by its absence. However, Sir Walter Lawrence the resident commissioner (1887-94) in his report mentions the heritage status of walnuts for the state as a potential export item.
According to the legend narrated by Prof B L Puttoo an internationally known agricultural scientist with immense knowledge of Kashmiri Pandit religion, the four-part kernel of the walnut represents Dharma, Artha, Kama and Moksha. It is also believed to be symbolic of the four Vedas: Rig, Yajur, Atharva and Sama. Another version states that walnut being oval in shape represents the universe and four kernels signify Iccha, Jnana, Kriya and Chitta. Walnut therefore is an auspicious part of the traditional Kashmiri Pandit culture.
Of the several species of walnuts the most commonly grown for their seeds are the Persian (or English) walnut, originating from Iran, the black walnut native to North America and the Japanese walnut, also known as the heartnut. In addition, there are several more species not commonly grown now. Several varieties have been cultivated by modifications but most of them are hybrids of the Persian variety only. The other variety, the black walnuts a very strong flavour and a very hard shell and poor hulling characteristics and no longer commercially cultivated.
Walnut has a rich history. Wal means foreign and is called in Dutch as walnoot, in Danish alnod and in Swedish valnot. The ancient Greek era (Byzantine Empire) which lasted from 330-1453 mentions walnut by the name of “royal nut”. An article on walnut tree cultivation in Spain is mentioned in Ibn al-Awwam’s a 12th century book. He wrote a lengthy handbook on agriculture entitled in Arabic Kitāb al-Filāḥa.
Plucking walnuts from its tree is considered to be one of the most dangerous jobs in the Valley, involving the scaling of giant trees, maintaining balance, while simultaneously beating a fruit-bearing branch with a long stick, locally known as a laanz. This practice result in serious orthopaedic injuries and surgeons have a harrowing time saving these persons. Many of them get spinal injuries paralysing those who survive. Every year several persons get these injuries despite awareness spreading campaigns by the horticulture department and agricultural institutions.
In Kashmir, walnuts especially the Kagzee variety which has a thin shell are grown organically, without using any chemical fertilizers. Kashmiri walnuts are nutritious, of a very good quality and are sold the world over. Walnut kernels are calorie and energy dense providing 654 kcal per 100 grams. It contains 4% water, 15% protein, 65% poly unsaturated and mono unsaturated (heathy) fat, and 14% carbohydrates including 7% dietary fiber. It has several dietary minerals particularly manganese and good amounts of Vitamin B.
They are popular throughout India and exported to UK, Netherlands, and France among many other countries. Once, Kashmir walnuts were exported to China also but over the years China has become the largest exporter of walnuts to the world. The walnut production of the entire world according to recent data was 3.5 million tonnes, with China being the highest producing one third of it followed by United States, Iran and Turkey. The production of Jammu and Kashmir is around 0.3 million tonnes. It is produced mainly in Anantnag, Pulwama, Shopian, Kupwara, Baramulla and Srinagar districts. Walnut trees, bearing walnuts, are the property of the government. The owners can only take the walnuts. The laws regarding this are very stringent from the days of the Dogra Maharajas and even now Government controls the selling of the walnut timber which is used for several ornamental purposes by expert artisans.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation
