The Living Soul of Trehgam
In Kashmir there are certain places where time itself seems hesitant to proceed, where the winds do not merely stir the leaves but carry the fragrance of ages past. In these places, the air is thick with ancient whispers, voices that softly remind the heart that humanity was created for unity, not division. One such sacred place is Trehgam, a modest yet spiritually elevated village cradled in the lap of Kupwara in the north Kashmir. This village, silent yet eloquent, speaks the language of centuries—of coexistence, of compassion, and of divine love that transcends the boundaries of creed and colour.
Kashmir has long been known as Pir Vaer, the Valley of Saints. Its mountains, its rivers, and its meadows are sanctified by the footprints of those noble beings who forsook worldly desires in pursuit of divine proximity. Saints and sages who transformed the hearts of men and women through their spiritual illumination and noble character. Among such exalted personalities was Hazrat Syed Ibrahim Bukhari (RA). According to the oral traditions cherished by the people of this village, he traversed the difficult and perilous paths of the Hindu Kush mountains. His journey was not one of material possession, but of love—seeking a place where the eternal message of unity could take root and flourish.
By divine guidance (Ilham), he selected Trehgam his seat of teaching the message of love and truth. The "Awliya Allah" do not walk by chance; they are led by divine insight. And from the moment he planted his feet upon this soil, Trehgam was transformed into a sanctum of peace and unity. His presence sanctified the land, and his spiritual legacy continues to cast light upon its people.
I have wandered through the narrow lanes of Trehgam myself. With each step, I felt as if I was not walking upon soil but upon sacred time. Once, on a radiant afternoon after offering my Dhuhr prayer at the Grand Jamia Masjid, I stood in its courtyard. I saw before me an image that penetrated my soul—a gathering of Kashmiri Pandit brethren who had just performed their Puja at the adjacent Shiv temple. Beside them was the blessed shrine of Hazrat Syed Ibrahim Bukhari (RA), silently presiding over this sacred congregation. Three places of worship stood together: a temple, a mosque, and a shrine. But they were not separate; they were three luminous candles lit from the same eternal flame of divine unity (Wahdat).
The Grand Masjid, in its present form, is the fourth structure built during the reign of Bakshi Ghulam Mohammad. According to oral sources, the first masjid was built by Hazrat Syed Abdullah Bukhari (RA). The ruins of this masjid are still present here.
The Pandit elders, their faces radiant with wisdom, were embraced by their Muslim brothers, not as guests or strangers, but as family—long parted and now reunited. There was no discomfort, no suspicion—only love, as natural as the river meeting the ocean. In that moment, I felt the presence of Lal Ded and Sheikh-ul-Alam (RA), whose teachings of "Ishq" and" Insaniyat" once nurtured the Kashmiri soul.
This harmonious coexistence is woven into the spiritual geography of Trehgam. The Shiv Mandir, the Jamia Masjid, and the shrine of Hazrat Syed Ibrahim Bukhari (RA) stand side by side. Before them lies an ancient pond, whose waters have served both Hindu and Muslim alike for over a thousand years. It quenched thirsts, irrigated fields, and cleansed bodies, never asking the religion of those who approached it. Sir Walter Lawrence once called it “the utmost beauty of Kashmir,” but its true beauty lies in its silent testimony to the Wahdat-al-Wujud—the unity of all existence.
Hazrat Syed Ibrahim Bukhari (RA), a spiritual companion of Mir Syed Ali Hamadani (RA), lived and prayed here. His resting place remains a beacon for those who seek nearness to Allah. So too did Hazrat Syed baba Abdullah Guzriyaali (RA), who built a "Chilla Kotri (meditation hut) here. Though the structure no longer exists, the spiritual fragrance lingers.
Today, no Kashmiri Pandit resides in Trehgam permanently. Yet they return, year after year, to offer their prayers. They are welcomed with open arms and hearts that hold no prejudice. This is the living soul of Trehgam—a sanctuary where humanity, love, and divine unity reign supreme.
The centuries-old brotherhood between two co-existing socio-religious identities has never witnessed any lasting conflict. This is a truth that the modern generations (GenNext) on both sides must recognize and cherish—otherwise, both will perish,” laments scholar, writer, broadcaster, and former Secretary of Culture J&K, Dr. Rafeeq Masoodi.
The author is a regular GK contributor
