The Iconic Attire of Kashmir

It is winter time and time to utilise our Pherans. The word Pheran or Phiran seems to have come from Persian language, where Pairaahan means a long robe. it is a cherished symbol that reflects the history, culture, identity, and resilience of the people of the Kashmir Valley. Actually, who brought it and popularised it in the valley is debatable. The Chinese traveller Hiuen-Tsang who lived in Kashmir for 15 years has noted in his writings about an attire akin to Phiran as early as 630 AD. The travellers from Persia also used to wear long robes to protect themselves from the fierce winter of Kashmir and had some influence in promoting it for the people of the valley. It is however generally believed that Mughal emperor Akbar around 1550 after conquering Kashmir by defeating Yakub Shah of Chak dynasty after several attempts made Phiran wearing compulsory for the locals so that the Kashmiris remain tied down to this attire.

This made them a lazy community especially in the long winter months. Afghans who followed Mughals with Ahmad Shah Abdali and his progeny continued with promoting this wear till they ruled up to 1819. In his book ‘The Valley of Kashmir’, Sir Walter Lawrence, the Settlement Commissioner for Jammu and Kashmir during 1889-94 also confirms and holds Akbar responsible for promoting this attire. Over the years the dress became a part of Kashmiri dress culture and continues to be accepted as a traditional dress especially during the long cold months from November till April for both males and females, it is made of woollen material.

The traditional phiran extends to the feet. It consists of two gowns, one over the other. Typically, it is worn over a pooch having the same dimensions as the pheran but is made of cotton or a lighter material. It provides double layered insulation due to air acting as an insulating material. The additional advantage being it saves the pheran from burning due to Kangri, an earthenware pot covered by wickerwork filled with simmering charcoal. Over the years with warmer inners the inner garment has gone out of fashion. A relatively recent version of the pheran extending to just below the knees is used more often.

The Pheran worn by women is usually decorated with handmade embroidery work around the collar area, pockets and the lower edge. It reflects a blend of cultural influences, combining elements of Central Asian, Persian, and local Kashmiri styles. The embroidery on the Pheran is a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship of Kashmiri artisans, showcasing intricate patterns inspired by nature, traditional motifs, and geometric designs. The embroidery is often done with colourful threads, creating a visually striking contrast against the subdued tones of the woollen fabric.

In December 2018 there was an official order against wearing this attire while on work in Government offices. This became a big controversy and was considered an onslaught on the Kashmiri culture. The order has not been withdrawn but has been sobered down. On the other hand since 2022, the beginning of Chillai Kalan on 21^st December is celebrated as the “International World Pheran Day” by way of a function at the Ghanta Ghar at the historic Lal Chowk.

Interestingly a glowing tribute unfolded when a resident of Budgam in Kashmir Jamal Budgami , presented a traditional Kashmiri Pheran to Prime Minister Modi’s cut out in 2023 with a media glare as a symbolic endeavour . Jamal Budgami sent this traditional garment to the Prime Minister through the postal service. A similar gesture was made by a farmer from Anantnag Irshad Ahmad Naikoo, who got a phiran stitched for Mr Modi and went all the way to PMO to deliver it, although he could not go through the security Corden but requested one of them to help. The phiran eventually reached the PM and he actually wore it while addressing an election rally in the valley recently. Likewise well-known politicians address their official meetings wearing the new style Pherans. This has actually become a characteristic and identity of these men over the years. Many politicians from mainland India have also started addressing public to woo for their votes clad in Pherans as was seen in the recent elections. This gives them a feeling of bondage with the masses.

Modern designer Pherans are available in the well-known markets, including Residency Road and Polo view, in Srinagar. They are becoming increasingly popular with visitors and tourists. The ladies Pherans with bright colours and designs are available in many parts of the country and is a fashion seen at many formal occasions too.

Thus, phiran from an enforced attire on Kashmiris by Moghuls and continued by Afghans has come of age and has become a very well accepted and symbolic Kashmiri national dress.

Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation