The golden fleece of Ladakh
The word Pashm means “Wool” in Persia. However, in Kashmir Pashm is referred to a raw and unspun wool of a special goat, also called the Pashmina goat, scientifically known as Capra hircus. It has a rich historical back ground. Samples of wool fibres recovered from corroded copper artefacts from the ancient civilization sources like from Harappa in western Panjab (now in Pakistan) are believed to be Pashmina and Shahtoosh (another rare, expensive, and soft wool that comes from the under-fleece of the Tibetan antelope, also known as the Chiru. It's considered the finest animal wool now banned because the animal needs to be killed and skinned to get the material.
The Pashmina goat as per the researchers is said to have originated in the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas. And ever since, these goats have thrived in the challenging terrains and climates of this majestic mountain range. Their adaptation to the harsh environment has endowed them with distinctive physical traits. These features set them apart from other goat breeds. One of the most noticeable features of a Pashmina goat is its modest size. Adult males weigh between 50 to 65 kilograms, while adult females typically weigh between 35 to 50 kilograms. Their relatively compact stature, long slender legs, and slender frame make them well-suited to navigate the steep, rocky terrains of the Himalayas.
These goats typically shed their winter coat every spring and an average of 100 to 170 grams of the fibre. It is their moulting season. This regrows in winter months. This undercoat is collected by combing the goat and not by sheering it as is done for sheep. The semi nomadic tribes of the Tibetan origin from the Changtang plateau of Ladakh also known as Changpas rear sheep in the harsh climates for meat, and Pashmina goats for wool. They export it to Kashmir by selling it to the traders.
The raw Pashmina is processed by first removing the impurities, guarding the hair and aligning fibres. It is then subjected to spinning, weaving and finishing, traditionally done by hand by craftsmen and craftswomen. In good old days elderly ladies sitting at home would do it in their spare times. I remember my nanee (maternal grandmother) used to be busy with it. The major centres of Pashmina fabric production are in the downtown areas of Srinagar city. It is a time-consuming process needing at least 2 to 3 weeks of work. The shawls were specially beautified by delicate artwork of putting different designs and patterns on the edges made of woven silk or gold (Zaree).
This material gained prominence through its use as Kashmir shawls in the Moghul times, especially during emperor Akbar’s rule from 1556 to 1605. Pashmina was a part of the material used to make expensive decorative robes to honour the members of the durbar to acknowledge their high services as a royal favour. This was the practice of giving Khilat or “robes of honour”. In Iran also from the 16th to the end of 19th century the emperors used to wear Pashmina and gifted Kashmiri shawls as Khilat within their political and religious practices. These were also coded as women’s luxuries.
These were passed on from mother to daughter, inherited rather than purchased. In France Pashmina shawls gained a special status as a fashion icon when Joséphine Bonaparte the first wife of Emperor Napoleon wore it enthusiastically and displayed it. These shawls suited the French well, providing the needed warmth, while adding visual interest to white French gowns through the traditional teardrop buta pattern and discreet floral motifs. The shawl became a symbol of French upper classes status even after the downfall of Napoleon to the Second Bourbon Restoration in 1815. This material fulfilled 19th century French tastes because it looked rich, had extensive ornamentation, artistic qualities, and was made of expensive raw materials.
Cashmere is a well-known term used by foreigners for Pashmina. It actually is an anglicization of Kashmir and was used when Pashmina shawls reached Europe in 19th century. China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia have become big producers and it has become a huge industry to make wearing products out of it in the United States of America.
Pashmina came before cashmere, as pashmina is the local term for the material that became known as cashmere in Europe much later. A craze for pashmina shawls, in the mid-1990s resulted in high demand for the raw material, so demand exceeded supply. When these shawls rose to prominence during the era, they were marketed dubiously. In the consumer markets, pashmina shawls have been redefined as a shawl/wrap with cashmere/silk, notwithstanding the actual meaning of pashmina. Some shawls marketed as pashmina shawls contain (sheep) wool, while other unscrupulous companies marketed artificial fabrics as Pashmina.
Meanwhile, Kashmir’s handicrafts department has proposed a triangular body to the Centre. This will comprise experts from the Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agricultural Sciences and Technology’s pashmina department, officials of the Handicrafts Department and officials of the Wildlife Department, for the certification of pashmina shawls in Kashmir. The proposal needs to be looked at seriously.
Prof Upendra Kaul, a prominent cardiologist, is the Founder Director, Gauri Kaul Foundation