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Tariq's Pashmkaar: Spinning a New Yarn for Kashmir's Economy

'Need to restore respect and honour of our craftsmen'
03:00 AM Jul 09, 2024 IST | MUKEET AKMALI
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In Kashmir, where centuries-old traditions blend seamlessly with modern aspirations, a remarkable story of entrepreneurship and cultural preservation unfolds. Tariq Ahmad Dar, the visionary behind the brand 'Pashmkaar', has transformed his family's legacy in Kashmiri handicrafts into an international sensation, bringing recognition and respect to artisans and their timeless crafts.
The journey of Pashmkaar is not just a tale of business success; it's a narrative deeply woven into the fabric of Kashmir's rich cultural tapestry. Tariq Ahmad Dar, a Srinagar-based handicraft manufacturer, seller, and exporter, has embarked on a mission to elevate Kashmir's handicrafts to global prominence, one intricate design at a time.
Roots in Tradition
Dar's story begins in the narrow lanes of Srinagar, where the soft hum of looms and the gentle whisper of spinning wheels have long been the soundtrack of daily life. "My journey in this craft began long before I was born," Dar reminisces.

"My father started embroidery work at the tender age of 12. After years of toil, he managed to save enough to start his own business, venturing beyond Jammu and Kashmir to sell Pashmina shawls."
The young Tariq found himself immersed in this world of craftsmanship from an early age. "During my school years, I used to maintain my father's accounts as he was illiterate," he shares. "My mother hailed from Narwara, an area in Srinagar where pashmina weaving is a household chore. Growing up, my life was surrounded by handicraft weaving. My grandmother used to do pashmina spinning. In my childhood, I understood the aesthetic and spiritual beauty of handicrafts. Being the eldest son, I was always by my father's side while he conducted business."
This early exposure to the world of Kashmiri handicrafts instilled in Dar a deep appreciation for the art form and the skilled artisans behind it. Little did he know that these childhood experiences would lay the foundation for a global brand that would one day carry the essence of Kashmir to the world.
A Detour Through Glamour
Dar's path took an unexpected turn after completing his studies. "I ventured into modelling for quite some time," he reveals. "I participated in Wills Fashion shows, and being in the glamour field, I gained insights into design and colour combinations." This exposure to the world of high fashion would later prove invaluable in Dar's mission to modernise and globalise Kashmiri handicrafts.
However, it was during these fashion shows that Dar noticed a disheartening trend. "I used to see many celebrities wearing Kashmir pashmina shawls, but it didn't trace back to Kashmir," he recounts with a hint of frustration. "Exporters here used to sell to companies who would put their own stamp on it. This thing annoyed me deeply."
The Birth of Pashmkaar
This realisation sparked a vision in Dar's mind – a vision of a brand that would proudly carry the Kashmir tag to the global stage. "I wanted to create a brand which has its roots in Kashmir," he explains passionately. "Even if a Bollywood celebrity wears a shawl, it would have a Kashmir tag to it. The benefits would come to artisans, restoring their dignity and respect, and taking the craft to the world for global recognition."
In 2016, this vision materialized into reality with the birth of Pashmkaar. The name itself is a testament to the brand's roots – 'Pash' being a Persian word and 'Kaar' a Kashmiri word. "It's a blend of our cultural influences," Dar explains, "just like our products."
Global Footprint
Since its inception, Pashmkaar has rapidly expanded its presence beyond the borders of Kashmir. "Apart from our showroom in Nigeen in Srinagar, we have showrooms in Hong Kong, and Taiwan, and we regularly participate in exhibitions across Europe, America, Asia, and Singapore," Dar states proudly.
But what sets Pashmkaar apart in a market flooded with handicraft products? Dar attributes it to a delicate balance of tradition and innovation. "90 percent of the handicraft items being made are old designs," he explains. "What I add is the trend, and colour patterns which I have learned through my travels. We incorporate international fashion colours and styles into our shawls and other products, making them relevant in the global market while retaining their traditional essence."
Empowering Artisans
For Dar, Pashmkaar is more than just a business; it's a mission to empower and uplift the artisan community of Kashmir. He speaks with reverence about the historical significance of the craft. "Shah-i-Hamdan brought this craft to Kashmir, and it's a legacy that keeps on going," he says. "It has made Kashmir artisans empowered. Even our female artisans are self-empowered as they can do this work within the four walls of their homes."
This commitment to artisan welfare is reflected in Pashmkaar's business practices. "We work with hundreds of artisans, ensuring fair wages and recognition for their skills," Dar emphasises. "Recently, Srinagar was recognized as a global craft city, which is a great achievement. But we must remember that the hands behind this success are those of our artisans."

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The Resurgence of Kashmir's Golden Threads
Dar sheds light on why the younger generation is shying away from this time-honoured craft.
"It's a complex issue," he begins, his eyes reflecting a mix of concern and determination. "There are two primary reasons why our youth are hesitant to embrace this beautiful tradition."

"Firstly, there's a social stigma attached to being an artisan. Society often looks down upon these golden hands that create such exquisite beauty. We need to change this attitude, to help people understand the value and dignity in this work."
Tariq's voice grows passionate as he continues, "The second reason is the lack of fair remuneration. In most fields, employees expect annual pay hikes of around 10%, but our artisans have been left behind. When I joined this trade, I committed to change this."
He speaks with pride about the steps he's taken. "Today, more than 500 artisans work with Pashmkaar, directly or indirectly. I ensure they receive fair wages, and I advocate for a 10% annual hike. This not only allows them to live comfortably but also makes the profession more attractive to the younger generation."
Dar's eyes cloud with concern as he reflects on the impact of this situation. "The younger generation sees this as a life of poverty and struggle. Even our women, who traditionally did pashmina spinning, have given up due to poor returns. We need to revive this practice – it used to provide financial empowerment to thousands of our mothers and sisters."
But he is not one to dwell on problems without offering solutions. His face brightens as he shares his initiatives. "I was the first in our industry to use social media to showcase our artisans. We're working to restore the respect and honour these skilled craftspeople deserve. After all, Srinagar is recognized as a global craft city – our artisans are special!"
He speaks reverently of the historical significance of the craft. "Shah-i-Hamdan brought this craft to Kashmir. It's not just about business; it's about preserving our heritage and empowering our people, especially women."
Dar's commitment extends beyond his own company. As the president of the Pashmina Exporters and Manufacturers Association (PEMA), he's working to bring industry-wide changes. "We're exploring ways to support independent artisans, like Kani weavers, ensuring fair wages across the board."
Challenges and Triumphs
The journey of Pashmkaar hasn't been without its challenges. From navigating global markets to maintaining quality standards, Dar has faced numerous obstacles. "Building a global brand from scratch is no easy task," he admits. "There were times when it seemed impossible, but our commitment to quality and authenticity always saw us through."
One of Pashmkaar's proudest moments came in 2022 when it received the "Best Kashmir Pashmina Handmade Award" at a prestigious event in Hong Kong. "This recognition validated our efforts and put Kashmir's handicrafts on the global map," Dar says with a smile.
Looking to the Future
As Pashmkaar continues to grow, Dar's vision for the future remains ambitious yet rooted in his love for Kashmir's cultural heritage. "Our goal is to make Pashmkaar synonymous with authentic, high-quality Kashmiri handicrafts worldwide," he states. "We're expanding our presence in international markets, but our heart will always be in Kashmir."
Dar also emphasises the importance of innovation in keeping traditional crafts relevant. "We're exploring new product lines, collaborating with international designers, and investing in sustainable practices," he reveals. "The future of Kashmiri handicrafts lies in blending our rich traditions with contemporary aesthetics."
A Message of Perseverance
To aspiring entrepreneurs and artisans, Dar offers words of encouragement: "Building an empire doesn't happen overnight. It's a long, arduous path with many ups and downs. Stay true to your vision, respect your roots, and never compromise on quality. Success will follow."

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