Srinagar’s Floating Gem

Amidst the enchanting landscapes of Srinagar, lies a true gem that embodies the essence of quirky charm of cultural richness and delightful eccentricity—our traditional Doonga boat locally known as Dongae, the exquisite tapestry of which interweaves the threads of antiquity with the contemporary. As you step into the city’s hustle and bustle, this relic of past, renovated now into floating palaces, deserve to be recalled and written in golden words. In the clamor of modernity, this symbol of culture overshadowed by the palatial boats has no doubt faded into obscurity. Yet, it is a testament to our rich legacy of heritage and craftsmanship.
The history of Dongae in Kashmir, traces back to the 18th century, when a local Kashmiri Pandit Naraindas opened a shop with a thatched roof on the water to cater to the needs of foreigners. Later destroyed by fire, this shop prompted Naraindas to replace it with a Doonga boat. A British army officer and explorer, Sir Francis Younghusband (1863-1942), in his memoirs mentioned that the idea of a luxurious floating house was first conceived around 1883 by the sport-loving Englishman M.T. Kennard. In realizing his dream, Kennard was helped by Naraindas which eventually led to a British army constructing the first Doonga boat.

In those days, Dongae boats were used for transportation purposes along the river Jhelum, passing through the heart of Srinagar city.  Finding the Indian plains intolerably hot in summer, the British too found the valley of Kashmir, surrounded by snow-clad mountains, an ideal refuge. Although they desired to build houses during Dogra rule, Maharaja Ranbir Singh didn’t permit them to construct houses, leading to the adaptation of Dongae for housing.

Over time Dongae boats were renovated leading to an overwhelming imitation and promoting massive growth in the tourism industry. Initially, Dongae was much narrower and shorter than the present-day colorful houseboats which are now a great attraction for tourists.

Made of deodar (cedar) wood, Dongae boats were built by Hanjis (boatmen) according to their family requirements, with construction generally carried out by local carpenters called Chan on a dry flat land.  Originally, Dongae settlers were Haenz (fishermen) on the waters of Jhelum or Dal Lake. However, over time, the purpose of these boats evolved, transforming them into luxurious houseboats with lavishly furnished rooms, deck or evening cocktails areas.

Moored at a suitable site, Dongae boats remained anchored with interconnecting bridges providing access from one boat to another. Each Dongae along the banks of Jhelum had a smaller boat outside to ferry family members, arrange essential commodities and help in earning a livelihood.

Today, these floating palaces remain a symbol of the region’s rich heritage and timeless craftsmanship, offering a unique glimpse into the cultural fabric of Srinagar.

As the days went by, this age-old traditional Dongae transformed into a houseboat—the first buyers of which were Europeans. They embellished these floating marvels into palaces of charming architectural splendor, incorporating local craftsmanship and art-work. The interior boasted Khatamband ceilings, carpet and namda flooring, intricate wooden carvings and colorful frescoes of papier-mâché objects. Exquisite draping of Aari and Suzni work showcased the region’s rich cultural heritage to the world.

Set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Himalayas and Dal Lake, Srinagar’s houseboat ambiance captivates on-lookers. These iconic floating palaces, surrounded by verdant views, stand as a testament to region’s magnificent architecture, and adorable craftsmanship, bustling with energy and wealth. The rich culture of fabled houseboats, dotted along the vibrant Boulevard road, attracts locals and outsiders alike in huge number annually, boosting Kashmir’s tourism and hospitality industry.

In the twilight of the years, echoes of the past resound, recalling a time when life in Kashmir was simple, and marked by brotherhood, harmony, peace and tranquility in every corner. We remember an era when nature enthusiasts came here to discover peace while staying in these erstwhile Dongae boats, praised by the grand Mughal Kings. It is believed that Emperor Jahangir’s pleasure barges snaked up and down the Jhelum on moonlit nights, with musicians serenading the royal party in other boats.

As we navigate the complexities of modernity, let us heed the call to reconnect with our roots, celebrating the traditions that define Kashmiri heritage. Through conscious choices and collective action, we can ensure that the legacy of Dongae remains preserved as a piece of Kashmir's pulsating cultural tapestry for new generations to come. Because this enduring symbol of cultural richness and historical significance will continue to enchant and inspire, reminding us of the beauty and elegance of our past.

Manzoor Akash is an educator.