Savouring Tradition: Srinagar's Masaal Tchott remains favourite snack, sustains livelihoods

Srinagar, Dec 14: How can street snacks be healthy? The hundreds of vendors, young and old, dotting the streets of Srinagar with their baskets, and now carts of Masaal Tchott have the answer. Over the years, the snack has not only gained popularity among locals but has also emerged as a livelihood option for hundreds of youth.

Once a humble treat sold by elderly women in wicker baskets outside shrines in Srinagar, the simple snack has taken over the gates of colleges and schools, hospitals, and markets.  Some sell on cycles, some carry the baskets on their heads, while others have colourful metal carts to carry the variety of filled utensils.

The snack is a sumptuous medley of boiled and mashed dry peas or chickpeas, spread over a flat bread (lavasa) and pepped up with a generous dollop of radish and onion chutney. And it's garnered popularity with the young generation, beating competition from snacks sold by MNCs in colourful packs.

The price of a Masaal Tchott is warmer than the meal: Rs 20 for a full one, and Rs 10 if you want half. One can see small crowds circling every vendor at rush hours, people watching their roll being prepared right in front of them, their eyes enjoying the scene, as much as their palate enjoys the taste. Some vendors have two variants of chutney to cater to a larger customer base - the red one if you like the heat in your roll, and the white one if you like it mild.

For Asif Rasool, a vendor from Baramulla who sells Masaal Tchott in an uptown market of Srinagar, it is the source of his own meal. "I moved to Srinagar six years ago. Initially, I would look for errands and work as a labourer, then I found this," he says, his face beaming with optimism. He has purchased his cart for Rs 25000 a few years ago. "Now it costs much more," he says. The young man says he earns Rs 400 to Rs 600 every day. "Better than not earning at all, or being unsure whether I will find labour work on a day," he said.

Some vendors have carried on the tradition for decades. A 68-year-old Ghulam Mohammad of Rainawari has been selling Tchott for 45 years outside the shrine of Dastgeer Sahab (RA). His basket gets empty twice a day. "My family brings fresh masaal when I run out of it," he said. He has not shifted to moving mode. "I have been stationed here for all these years. This is where people look for me," he said.

Many women, mostly elderly, are also seen selling the snack across Srinagar markets and outside shrines. Some sell boiled wheat and black beans. "I feed my family through Halal means. Am I doing anything wrong?" asked Mahtaba (name changed), a vendor in a busy Srinagar market. Asked why she was irate at the query, she said many passersby ask her the question of why she sells masaal tchott in the market. "It makes me happy to feed people, and to feed my family," she said, forcing a smile on her face.

No oils and colours are used in masaal tchott. Except for the flat white bread, the package shouts health on the top note. However, health reasons are not solely behind the popularity, for sure. Masaal tchott tastes ethnic, satiates the buds for traditional taste, and is friendly for every pocket.