Revisiting a thing long forgotten

During my visits to Srinagar in the school days, I frequently used to stay with my aunt (Bengashi) who used to live in Kani Kadal on the bank of an offshoot of Katae Kol, historically a canal from river Jhelum made during the rule of Kota Rani to save the city from frequent floods.

I remember her sending me often to a neighbour’s house by the surname of Razdan in the same locality with a bowl of rice water pitch (anima in Kashmiri). I used to go obediently and after introducing myself to their family, who used to lead me to one of their upper stories where there was a large oblong shaped earthenware clay pot (matka) painted black from outside.

A lady used to open its lid on the top and pour the “anima” in the matka. They knew I used to live mostly in Delhi so an extra courtesy was shown to me, and always offered a cold drink. Before returning I used to be given the rice water from the matka to be taken back to Bengashi’s place. On asking about the content of this matka, I was told it is called Sader Kaenz.  A very healthy form of rice water with lot of benefits.

Sader Kaenz is a mostly forgotten Kashmiri recipe from times immemorial. Traditionally it was made by a chosen family which had the know-how of making it from generations. That family also used to distribute it to the neighbours who used to contribute by donating the rice water pitch. A nice way of having a useful symbiotic relationship.

This concoction has ingredients like Ajwain (Carom seeds), salt to taste, a few dried red chillies, mint and carom leaves and traditionally seven seeds of different cereals. Ajwain contained in it makes the rice water pitch fermented giving it a gentle sour taste.  The use of Sader Kaenz has been a part of Kashmiri culture both amongst Pandits and Muslims and is one of the recipes not brought in from Persia or Central Asia. It can also be made by anyone familiar with proportion of the ingredients and knowledge of the time frame needed for fermentation.

Besides making a healthy digestive drink with a cooling and thirst-quenching effect in summers it was also used to give flavour to various kinds of curries. These delicious curries include fish and radish, fish and nadroo (Lotus stems) , haakh and potatoes, green sour plum

(Prunus called  Gordoul in Kashmiri) and fish etc.

Gordoul is another forgotten fruit of the valley which the new generation has not even heard of like Sader Kaenz. It is no longer available in the market, neither with vegetable vendors nor with fruit sellers. When available in the market in 1960’s it was so cheap that vendors hardly made any profit and gave up its trade.

A famous saying reminds me of the old times “don paensan gordoul pao” (250 grams of gordoul cost 2 pennies). On serious exploration of its existence these days, I finally found it growing in plenty on the trees along the Dachigam nala outside the entry to the national park. Being fond of it I have also found a permanent source, who gets it for me, in Mr Bilal, a forest guard posted in that area.

It is always good to know some things out of our culinary habits which our parents and forefathers were enjoying in different seasons. It not only brings nostalgic memories but also allows these to remain a part of our history.

Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director, Gauri Kaul Foundation