Portrait of Persistence | Showkat’s artistic crusade to safeguard Pashmina's beauty against machine onslaught

Srinagar: In a dimly lit room in Batwina, Ganderbal, Showkat Ahmad Lone, an artisan with 20 years of experience in crafting Pashmina shawls, is waging a solitary battle to preserve the exquisite beauty of Pashmina through his unique portrait designs.

Lone’s story is one of resilience, patience, and dedication to his craft, as he strives to keep the traditional art form alive in the face of daunting challenges posed by machine-made shawls flooding the market.

Lone, while reflecting on his journey, expresses the difficulties he and fellow artisans face in making ends meet.

He says that the influx of machine-made shawls into the market has severely impacted their craft.

“On average, a shawl weaver earns a meager Rs 400 to 500, which is insufficient to meet basic family expenses. As a result, the younger generation is shying away from pursuing this traditional craft, raising concerns that Kashmir might lose its Pashmina artisans shortly,” says Lone who was awarded by the J&K government for his work.

Pinpointing that the intrusion of machine-made handicraft items into the market was the primary reason behind the struggle of traditional artisans, he also highlights that a significant portion of the profit is taken by dealers and middlemen, leaving artisans with meager earnings.

To keep this art afloat, he has introduced portrait designing on Pashmina shawls and portrayed images of top personalities like Mahatma Gandhi, Prime Minister Narendra Modi, film stars, Police officials, and also the logo of G20.

Lone’s decision to introduce portrait designing on Pashmina shawls has been a game-changer for him and his fellow artisans.

“It has been two years since I started portrait design on Pashmina shawls, and as a result, my earnings have increased,” he says.

About his motivation, he says, “Necessity is the mother of invention.”

Lone says that the plight of Kashmiri artisans is miserable and they are not able to make more than Rs 600 a day.

“This is why people prefer labour jobs over venturing into handicrafts. There is an immediate need for government intervention as our heritage craft is being eroded by machine-made items, and big dealers profit at the expense of poor artisans,” he says. “The idea of creating shawl designs with portraits in mind occurred to me, and this unique approach has not only added a creative touch but has also been financially beneficial.”

Lone’s story underscores the urgent need for government intervention to support traditional artisans and preserve the rich cultural heritage of Kashmir Valley.

While Lone’s innovative approach has breathed new life into Pashmina craftsmanship, many artisans continue to struggle.

“The government’s support can ensure the survival of this centuries-old craft, which holds immense cultural and economic significance in the region,” he says. Lone’s journey serves as an inspiration for artisans across Kashmir, reminding them that creativity and innovation can help them adapt to changing market dynamics and overcome adversity.