Kashmiri Hogadda: A Dwindling Culinary Delight

Kashmiri culinary delights are very well known - both the Wazawan with its up to 36 dishes and the multiple Kashmiri Pundit dishes consisting of Roganjosh, Kaliya, Yakhni, Mattch, Kabargah, Dum Aloo, several types of Paneer, and vegetable curries. One of the dishes not talked about much is the dried fish locally called the Hogadda. This delicacy is consumed by all Kashmiris. Hokh means Dry and Gadda means Fish.

It is a delicacy which is getting slowly forgotten although it still continues to be a part of our winter menu at least on a few days. Part of the reason is that with better transportation during the winter months all the vegetables and fresh food products reach the consumers easily even in remoter areas of the valley.

Fresh fish putrefies rapidly unless some way can be found to preserve it. Drying is a well-known method that works by removing water and moisture which inhibits the micro-organisms. Open air method of sun and wind drying have been used since ancient times to preserve food. This traditional method has been in use in several parts of the world, including Europe and in our neighbourhood in Sri Lanka, Maldives and also in a few parts in costal India.

The drying of fish in Kashmir starts in October. People believe consuming it besides its crunchy taste keeps cold and cough away and supplies healthy proteins. Its demand increased exponentially during Covid years. It remains good for at least 5 to 6 months. Hogaad has several varieties: Patchiey hogadda- (Smoked fish preserved in big baskets), the larger variety of dried fish called the ‘Pharrei’ and the smaller one the “Gurran” , kept as razzae (needled in a thick string in a row) with alternate fish a bit larger.

Cooking it is easy and the art is carried on from mother to daughter. Basically, it needs to be heated on a Tawa (thick metal frying pan) till smoke comes out and the smell goes away. It is then washed and soaked in water and then squeezed to take out its water and finally cooked into a curry. The usual Kashmiri spices, like powdered ginger, turmeric, fennel, cumin seed and of course red chilli powder are used generously. Haakh (traditional Kashmiri green leaves) can be added making it a mouthwatering “Hogadda te Haakh”. Its unique crispy taste is a delicacy during the coldest part of winter the Chil ai kalan (December 21st to January 29th).
The demand of Hogaad has come down in recent years. In the past it was available all over the city and Habba Kadal used to be a big market. As a visitor to my matamaal

located in Kanikadal located nearby. As a young boy I used to wonder what these shrivelled nasty smelling crumpled things were. My mother Gauri was very fond of them and used to buy them and bring to Delhi. She used to keep them in a smell proof container. Later I came to know what a delicacy it was.

These days it is available during winter months in selected places in the downtown and one of the famous ones is in Malarhatta, and also in some shops in Batmaloo. These traditional winter delicacies like Hokhasyun (dried vegetables) and Hogaada need to be preserved as a part of our rich tradition.

Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation