Kashmiri designers make waves at Times Fashion Week with eco-conscious creations

Srinagar, May 23: When Arwa Shah left MBBS for fashion designing she thought it was the end of the world for her. But several years later, Ms Shah – who was one of three Kashmiri designers to participate in Times Fashion Week in Gurgaon – says ‘the world has just started to unravel before me’.

Ms Shah, joined by Mir Manal and Arman Nasir, has brought the rich cultural heritage of Kashmir to the forefront in an unprecedented manner.

The trio presented a collection crafted entirely from waste materials. Their innovative use of disposable glasses, umbrellas, ropes, foam, keys, and other discarded items set them apart from the typical ethnic and designer wear showcased at the event.

Their showcase was not just a collection but a performance art piece, delivering a powerful message on environmental sustainability.

"Our outfits are not daily wear products but conceptual art designed to convey that Kashmiris are creative and capable of innovation at par with renowned designers like Manish Malhotra," Ms Shah told Greater Kashmir, in an exclusive chat. "We want to establish ourselves in the fashion industry first and then bring the traditional Tilla and Sozni work to a broader audience."

Inspired by the avant-garde styles of Instagram influencer Urfi Javed, the designers pushed the boundaries of conventional fashion. Despite facing initial resistance from family and community members, who often conflated fashion designing with modeling or tailoring, they persevered. "Fashion designing is a completely different discipline," explained Ms Shah. "When I opted for fashion designing, many people (in the family) voiced their opposition. Because people don’t understand that fashion designing is not modelling. It is not tailoring. It is a completely different thing. If you can understand people like Manish Malhotra why not us? Why do you consider us models or tailors?"

The preparation for the Times Fashion Week was meticulous and demanding.

The designers, who are currently pursuing their degree in fashion designing at SSMD, said it took them five months to find and source the materials. The tailoring and stitching of these materials required a tremendous amount of effort. Throughout this process, our college, especially our Head of the Department, Insha Qazi, provided immense help, they said.

The showstopper, actress Anupriya Goenka, wore a dress made from real leaves and branches sourced from Kashmir, symbolizing Mother Earth and garnering widespread appreciation.

To avoid surprise among the audiences, Ms Shah said they had distributed concept notes in advance. “This was not a collection but a performance art which we presented. Our performance literally infused life into the audience,” she said, adding that they have also received positive feedback from the people in Kashmir.

Ms Shah said they don’t necessarily want people to wear such outfits. “This was an attempt to spread an eco-friendly message, and we took to such designs to gain attraction and to convey our message that we ‘Kashmiris are creative and we can do it too’,” she said.

Their participation marks the first time Kashmiri designers have featured in the prestigious fashion week, breaking away from the traditional Tilla and Sozni embroidery that usually represents the region. By doing so, they have set a new benchmark for Kashmiri fashion, aiming to create a name synonymous with luxury and innovation.