Jhelum The flowing soul of Kashmir

The Jhelum River, the lifeline of the valley of Kashmir, derives its name from “Jal” (pure cold water) and “Ham” (snow): This is the most widely accepted theory. It originates from the snow-capped Himalayas from a natural spring Verinag located in the Anantnag district, at the foot of the Pir Panjal ranges.

Vitasta, however, is the earliest recorded name for the river. This name is mentioned in ancient Hindu texts like the Rigveda and the Nilmata Purana and has many legends associated with it referring to Lord Shiva and Parwati, the most revered and fundamental deities in Hinduism. The name Vitasta has been simplified into “Vyath” and Kashmiris in general call it by this name.

The river also is mentioned by the Greeks as Hydaspes. During Alexander the Great’s campaign, the river was known to the Greeks as Hydaspes. However, this connection to the name “Jhelum” is not widely accepted. While the definitive origin of the modern name “Jhelum” might be debated, the connection to its ancient Sanskrit name “Vitasta” and the descriptive “Jal Ham” are the most widely accepted explanations. From its serene source, it meanders northward, passing through the historic city of Srinagar, where its calm waters reflect the vibrant water bodies and houseboats and willow-lined banks define the city’s charm.

The city is situated on both its banks. It has a long course of around 78 kms from its source in Verinag. The important towns located on the route are Anantnag, Bijbehara and Pampore. A number of tributaries join it on the route from Verinag till its entry into Srinagar. On its right bank it is joined by Lidder river coming via Pahalgam joining near Khanabal, Veshav river from Kulgam district at Sangam in Anantnag, Sind River joining it at Shadipora, Pohru river at Doabgah Sopore, before it crosses over to Pakistan side of Kashmir.

While on its left bank it is joined by Rambiara through the Ganderbal district, Sukhnag river flowing through Budgam district, Doodganga near Batmaloo swamp and Ferozepur Nala in the Baramulla district after Ningal Nallah have joined it upstream of Sopore.

After entering the city of Srinagar one can visualize that how it is central to Kashmir’s history for millennia, witnessing the rise and fall of various empires, from ancient civilizations like the Indus Valley to the Mughals and the British. It has seven traditional bridges joining the two sides, which in recent years have increased in numbers. While some have been replaced by modern structures; bridges like Amira Kadal, Zaina Kadal, and Fateh Kadal have immense historical and cultural significance.

Amira Kadal, often referred to as the “First Bridge,” holds significance not as the oldest, but as a key connector in Srinagar’s urban fabric. It was constructed between 1774 and 1777 by the Afghan Governor Amir Khan Sher Jawan. Its construction was a testament to Amir Khan’s ambition as a builder, who also commissioned the Sher Garhi Palace on the Jhelum’s banks and the Amirabad Garden by Dal Lake. For centuries, Amira Kadal has served as a vital artery, facilitating the movement of people and goods, and witnessing the ebb and flow of political and social changes in Kashmir. Its presence underscores the strategic importance of bridges in connecting the two halves of the city.

Zaina Kadal, built in 1427 AD by Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, famously known as “Badshah” (the Great King), is arguably the most historically important of the old bridges. Its construction marked a period of significant development and prosperity in Kashmir. The Sultan, known for his progressive policies and patronage of arts and crafts, envisioned this bridge as a crucial link to bolster trade and commerce between the city’s commercial districts and surrounding areas. Over its long history, Zaina Kadal has been associated with significant political and military events, at times serving as a strategic defensive point during uprisings. The area surrounding the bridge evolved into a vital market hub where merchants traded goods like spices, textiles, and handicrafts. Zaina Kadal also played a central role in Kashmir’s freedom movement, with a historic reading room nearby serving as a meeting point for prominent Kashmiri figures.

Fateh Kadal, also known as Old Fateh Kadal or the Iron Bridge, was the third bridge to be built over the Jhelum in Srinagar, around 1499. It was originally constructed by Sultan Fateh Shah as a cantilever wooden structure. The name “Fateh Kadal” translates to “Bridge of Victory,” suggesting its connection to significant historical events or achievements of the time. Over the centuries, the bridge underwent numerous renovations and reconstructions, with Maharaja Pratap Singh completing a significant revamp in 1902. The area around Fateh Kadal is also historically rich, being home to important institutions like the Gandhi Memorial College and the Khanqah-e-Moula, a revered shrine of Shah-e-Hamdan, which is an exquisite example of traditional Kashmiri wooden architecture. This proximity to religious and educational sites further emphasizes its historical and cultural importance as a nexus of activity.

These bridges collectively represent the architectural ingenuity, strategic thinking, and cultural evolution of Srinagar, serving as enduring symbols of the city’s deep connection to the Jhelum River. The riverbanks in the old city (Sheher-e-Khaas) feature traditional Kashmiri homes built directly on the water’s edge, reflecting the sophisticated taste of the past. Ancient mosques, temples, and shrines, such as the Shah Hamdan Mosque (Khanqah-e-Moula), are located along the river.

Within Srinagar, the Jhelum also has important connections with other water bodies. The Chuinth Kol, “Apple Canal”, is a significant navigational canal in Srinagar. It branches out from the Jhelum River near the northern end of the Zero Bridge and rejoins it downstream in the Maisuma locality close to the Budshah Bridge. The other canal, the Kota Kol (also spelled Kutte Kol) is a significant navigational canal that runs through Srinagar. It is believed to have been commissioned by Kota Rani, a medieval ruler of Kashmir, primarily to regulate floods on the Jhelum River. Later, it was also used for navigation to transport food grains into the city.

Historically, the Jhelum served as a crucial waterway for trade and commerce, connecting the Kashmir Valley with other regions. Even today, some traditional markets and wholesale mandis are situated near its banks. The Jhelum supports diverse flora and fauna, including various fish species like trout. While facing environmental challenges from urbanization, it remains a vital part of Kashmir’s ecosystem.

Finally, Jhelum flows through Srinagar into Wular Lake before entering Pakistan-administered Kashmir through a deep, narrow gorge at Muzaffarabad. It is then joined by the Kishanganga River (known as Neelum River in Pakistan) and then bends southward, forming part of the border between occupied Kashmir and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Finally, the Jhelum River joins the Chenab River at Trimmu in the Jhang District of the Punjab province of Pakistan and becomes a part of Chenab.

The Jhelum River is the soul of Kashmir. Its continuous flow symbolizes the enduring spirit of the region, nurturing its people, sustaining its economy, and enriching its cultural heritage. Protecting and preserving this invaluable natural asset is not just an environmental necessity but a commitment to safeguarding the past, present, and future of our beautiful Kashmir Valley.