Harisa: Good Morning Kashmir
We are inching towards the end of Chillai Kalan, but still Chillai Khurd and Chillai Bacha ( two less severe and smaller periods of chill) are to follow. These are difficult days spent mostly indoors and this year has been exceptionally cold, but fortunately with good snowfalls. If in good health, it is time for hunger and good appetite. Kitchen continues to be the heart of a Kashmiri home and it becomes more so in winters.
One of the winter delicacies is Harisa, a morning mutton dish which signifies both life and ritual in the entire valley and is specific to the coldest months. It is basically a mixture of Kashmiri sticky rice with mutton, condiments like cinnamon, fennel seeds, cloves, cardamoms, black pepper and shallots (Praan in local language). Cooking it is not everybody’s cup of tea. It needs not only hard work, but also skill.
The word Harisa comes from Arabic “Harassa” which literally means to pound or to crush, and was originally used to describe a gruel of wheat, butter, meat and certain spices and dates back to 7th century, with variants like the Tunisian paste of several condiments mainly roasted red pepper spices such as garlic paste, cumin seeds, coriander seeds and olive oil and sometimes rose petals are other accompaniments. It is a part of the culinary history of Tunisia. It is also a well-known dish in Saudi Arabia and Armenia with the same basic characteristics of a coarsely ground wheat, mixed with meat and seasoned with a consistency varying between porridge and a gruel. Harees is a popular dish known in Arabian states of the Persian Gulf. It is consumed especially in the month of Ramadan.
Harisa is believed to be introduced in Kashmir valley by Persian Sufi scholar Mir Syed Ali Hamdani in 14th century who came to Kashmir thrice with a noble mission of spreading the religion of Islam and arrived in Kashmir for the first time in 1372. Haleem and Khichra are dishes with some similarities with Kashmiri Harisa. They also originated as an Arabic dish with meat and pounded wheat with herbs and spices during the rule of the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan, and during the regimen of 7th Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan. Haleem is a paste while Khichra has mutton cubes when served. Typically, Haleem is thinner and not like the thick paste as Harisa.
Harisa in Kashmir established as a breakfast delicacy during the time of Moghuls. It is a traditional dish made by specialised cooks called harisaguyrs who are based historically at Saraf Kadal and Ali Kadal areas of the downtown of Srinagar. The business has also extended to the Lal Chowk area and many other places in Srinagar, but these are poor imitations.
The cooks start cooking it late in the evening and mix the ingredients including rice, condiments, delicate spices and legs of goat in large earthen ware vessel, Degs. They then let it cook on sim fire for at least 6 to 8 hours. This is the time when the “wosta” (chef) dozes off for 3 to 4 hours till 4 am. The labour starts now, the bones have already separated off and are removed and the contents are stirred and simultaneously mashed till it becomes a thick paste. At this stage, boiling, smoky mustard oil and some milk is poured while the wooden masher continues to stir.
Small kebabs are made to be served along with and also a small serving of Methi maaz (lamb’s intestines cooked in fenugreek) and tempered onion rings. It is served steaming hot with a sprinkling of flaming mustard oil. It goes well with Kashmiri morning bread, girda (circular in shape, with pizza-like puffed borders and a dimpled surface). Girda also serves the purpose of a scoop lifting the sticky paste to the open and watering mouth. No beverages are served along with it. It is a concentrated and focussed treat of Harisa. This real treat during the coldest months is full of fat and calories to give real warmth during the freezing temperatures.
In the recent years affluent families send large quantities of Harisa bought from the chefs to the families of their newly wed daughters. During the recent years since the recipes are easily available, it is also made often at homes. Tinned Harisa is also exported for connoisseurs living in different parts of the world. The health-conscious people use chicken instead of mutton. However, the aroma, and the ambience of having it steaming hot the traditional way in the downtown at selected places is no match to these attempts. For a healthier heart it should be consumed and enjoyed sparingly only and not at the cost of regular exercise and other preventive measures.
Harisa is truly a Kashmiri winter, royal breakfast cuisine and is a part of our culture and ethos.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul foundation
