Gurez Valley: A hidden gem worth unveiling
Having visited Gurez several years ago once, in company of my uncle along with Mian Altaf Sahab, I recall the adventurous visit with an overnight stay there. The route from Bandipore is uphill at the start and gave us a view of the neighbouring Wular lake, the largest fresh water lake of the Indian sub-continent.
From a low-lying area of around 5200 ft the road traverses a distance of around 47 kms of scenic forests, cool breeze. The first major stop is the Razdan Pass. The pass is the highest point on the road to Gurez (11467 feet) and marks a dramatic transition in the landscape. As you ascend from the forests near Bandipore, you enter a stark, rugged, and majestic high-altitude terrain. This place was an important part of the silk route connecting Kashmir to Central Asia. There is a very revered shrine with a deep spiritual significance which comes on the way just before Razdan Pass and is famous by the name of Peer Baba and generally all travellers stop here to pay their peer baba at Razdan pass. peer baba at Razdan pass.
The Peer Baba shrine, a powerful symbol of communal harmony and shared faith is a revered and sacred spot located on the approach to Razdan Pass, a few kilometres before reaching the highest point. It is a place of deep spiritual significance and a mandatory stop for most travellers, particularly security forces, on their way to the Gurez Valley. According to local legend, the saint known as Peer Baba, whose true identity and religion were unknown, came to the region from what is now Pakistan in the 1930s. He was a reclusive figure, known for speaking and hearing very little, and was often referred to by locals as “Nanga Baba.” He was believed to have lived for months without food or water and was known for his humility and acceptance of all offerings from the local people.
From Razdan pass onwards the journey to Gurez valley is downhill with steep road at places very rough with sharp bends. The landscape changes from rugged mountains to a lush green valley with Kishan Ganga (Neelam) river flowing through it. One can see the most formidable and famous peak of this valley the Habba Khatoon, a pyramid-shaped mountain named after a 16th-century Kashmiri poetess.
Upon entering the Gurez Valley, you are immediately greeted by a breathtaking panorama of untouched natural beauty, a stark contrast to the more populated parts of Kashmir. The valley is a blend of towering mountains, lush meadows, and the powerful Kishanganga River. Dawar is the main village and the heart of the Gurez Valley. It serves as a central hub for travellers and is a great place to experience the local Dard-Shina culture. The traditional wooden houses, very interactive friendly locals who help travellers to find the few available guesthouses and shops. Then there is the most iconic landmark of Gurez. The mountain, with its distinct pyramid shape which is a source of local legend and is named after a 16th-century Kashmiri poetess Habba Khatoon. As the legend goes this very beautiful lady who was a poetess from Pampore and eventually married to Yusuf Shah Chak then ruler of Kashmir. He was sent to exile in Bihar by emperor Akbar where he died. A devastated Habba Khatoon finally got solace when she reached Gurez near the mountain and used to sing near its base, The hill is therefore named after her. It stands out with its incredibly distinct and symmetrical pyramid shape. It is particularly beautiful during sunrise and sunset, when the light casts a golden on its unique silhouette.
The people of Gurez are primarily Dard-Shins, an ethnolinguistic group that is considered one of the oldest in the region. Historically, Gurez was a part of “Dardistan,” a region that extended to parts of modern-day Pakistan and Afghanistan. This heritage sets the Gurezis apart from the Kashmiri-speaking people. The Gurezis primarily speak Shina, an Indo-Aryan language that is different from Kashmiri. While many Gurezis also understand Urdu and Kashmiri, Shina is the primary language of daily life and a key marker of their distinct identity. Their culture, dress, and customs are more similar to their kinsmen in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region than to the people of the Kashmir Valley. This is a testament to the historical connections that were severed by the Line of Control (LoC). Notably, the Gurez Valley lies in close proximity to the Line of Control and has borne the brunt of border skirmishes between India and Pakistan in the past. During the recent Indo-Pak conflict several residents of Gurez Valley had to flee from their homes and made their way towards the district headquarters in Bandipora division.
The Gurezi’s are known for their warmth and hospitality, a trait that is often highlighted by visitors. Their local economy is largely agrarian, with people relying on agriculture and livestock rearing for their sustenance. The region is known for its traditional farming practices and unique handicrafts. Due to the limited window for cultivation (typically from April to September), the region’s agricultural practices are confined to a single cropping season. Main products are potatoes, the most, significant crop and is renowned for its high-quality. Farmers have developed traditional, low-tech methods of preserving them underground to last through the long, snowbound winters. Corn (maize), wheat are the two major cereal crops besides Rajmash (Kidney beans). Kala Zeerah (black Cummin) is a heritage crop which grows wild but these days systematic cultivation is also being done.
The Samoons are a prominent and influential family from the Gurez Valley. They are members of the Dard-Shina community and have played a significant role in the region’s public life, administration, and cultural preservation. Noteworthy of them Dr. Asgar Hassan Samoon (IAS) was a highly-regarded administrative officer who has held several key governmental positions in Jammu and Kashmir. Masood Ul-Hassan Samoon: A respected poet, writer, and administrator who is highly regarded for his efforts in developing and promoting the Shina language. Hajji Abdul Aziz Samoon (KPS): He was the chairman of the Jammu and Kashmir Dard-Shina Development Organization (JKDSDO), a body that represents the interests of the Dard community.
His work focused on safeguarding the cultural ethos and traditions of the Dard-Shin tribe and last but not the least Baqar Samoon a prominent police officer from the Gurez Valley and a member of the influential Samoon family. His career has been focused on law enforcement and community engagement in Jammu and Kashmir. He has been Commandant of several battalions Throughout his career, Baqar Sahab has been noted for his efforts to improve police-public relations and address the concerns of local communities. In 2021, he was also awarded the President’s Police Medal for Meritorious Service, recognizing his dedication and exemplary service. Baqar Sahab is a close friend and what I have narrated in this article is from our conversations during the last decade.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul foundation
