From Royal Feasts to Modern Tables
The Kashmiri Wazwan is a magnificent, multi-course meal that has become an integral part of the region’s cultural identity, particularly associated with weddings and special gatherings. Its origins are widely traced back to central Asia and Persia, with its development in Kashmir often linked to the 14th-15th century. The most popular theory attributes its arrival to the migration of skilled artisans and cooks, known as Wazas, who came to Kashmir from Samarkand (Central Asia) during the reign of the Mongol ruler Timur (Tamerlane). The tradition, the name is believed to derive from the Persian words waza’ (cook) and wan (shop or a place where food is cooked), evolved over centuries. It blended the culinary techniques and dishes brought by the immigrants (such as Kabab, Korma, and Yakhni) with local Kashmiri ingredients and tastes. This fusion created the unique, lamb-centric feast that is known today, with distinctive features like the use of Kashmiri shallots (Praan) instead of common onions/garlic in some traditional recipes, and the deep red colour imparted by the indigenous Mawal (coxcomb flower) instead of pungent and spicy red chillies.
Wazwan remains largely confined to the Kashmir Valley for several key reasons, relating to its preparation, ingredients, and cultural significance: The preparation of authentic Wazwan is a highly specialized art, traditionally performed by professional chefs called Wazas, whose knowledge has been passed down through generations. These Wazas are primarily based in the Valley, making it difficult to replicate the quality and authenticity elsewhere. Though a sprinkling of them have moved to some metro cities of main land India too but the style of the feast has not been replicated.
Besides the certain ingredients crucial for the unique flavour profile the preference for cooking over wood fire in large copper cauldrons (Degs), are integral to the tradition and less readily available or used in neighbouring countries or regions. The Wazwan is deeply embedded in the social and cultural fabric of Kashmiri life, particularly among the Muslim community, though several Kashmiri Pandit dishes have many things in common. It is viewed as an art form and a core element of the Kashmiri identity.
The custom of four people sharing the large copper plate, the Tramee (or Tream), is a profound ritual rooted in the principles of community, equality, and hospitality in Kashmiri culture. Eating together from a single plate fosters a sense of camaraderie and social bonding among the diners. Some sources suggest the practice was intended to break down social barriers, promoting a sense of equality by having people of different social standing share food from the same platter. The dining ritual, beginning with a ceremonial hand-washing (Tash-t-Nari), symbolizes purity and respect before starting the feast.
The number of dishes served in a traditional Wazwan has grown significantly over time, from perhaps seven dishes originally to a multi-course meal today that can feature anywhere from 12 to 36 dishes (or even more in grand celebrations). This expansion, coupled with rising ingredient costs and the elaborate, time-consuming preparation, has indeed increased the financial burden on hosts, especially for weddings, disproportionate to general income growth.
The Tramee is first filled with steamed rice, and then four pieces of each of the following initial dishes are placed on top for the four diners: Seekh Kabab: Spiced, minced mutton grilled on skewers over hot coals. Tabak Maaz: Ribs of lamb that are slow-cooked until tender, then fried until crispy. Waza Kokur (Safed Kokur): Chicken (often half a chicken per person) cooked in a white, light gravy. Accompaniments served alongside include yogurt, vegetable or walnut chutney, and salad.
This is followed by the sequential mutton dishes: these are the curries and gravies served sequentially by the Waza (cook) and his assistants throughout the meal: Rogan josh, an iconic aromatic lamb curry. Rista: mutton meatballs pounded to a fine texture and cooked in a vibrant red, rich gravy. Aab gosht, tender lamb pieces cooked in a white, delicate gravy. Yakhni: a lighter, yogurt-based mutton curry. Marchwangan Korma: a very spicy lamb korma.
In between the servings of Ruwangan Chaaman: Paneer (Indian cheese) cooked in a tomato gravy. Waza Heddar: a mushroom dish prepared by the Waza and Palak (spinach) cooked with spices and dripping mustard oil gives the mutton-based preparations a break. The grand finale however is the penultimate or final signature dish of the Wazwan the Gushtaba: it consists of large, soft meatballs made from finely pounded mutton and cooked in a thick, white yogurt gravy. It is often referred to as the “dish that signals the end of the meal,” or the “king of the Wazwan.” The typical Wazwan served on a trami packs roughly 20,000 Kcal for the whole tray which comes to around 5000 kcal per person. Interestingly Haakh (Collard green), the everyday food item of Kashmir is missing from the Wazwan dishes.
The traditional Wazwan however is becoming a debatable issue and increasing pressure to moderate portion sizes (as suggested by health concerns due to its high caloric content) or reduce the total number of dishes to manage costs and waste being the reason. Modern trends already show the rise of restaurant-style Wazwan or buffet services, which deviate from the traditional four-person shared Tramee. This suggests a potential future where the experience of Wazwan becomes more commercialized and accessible outside of major functions, potentially at the expense of the full, traditional ritual. There is however a strong, sustained effort by the community and Wazas to preserve the original form, suggesting it will remain a cornerstone of Kashmiri identity, even if it has to adapt to economic and health-related realities.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation
