Crafting luxury, living in poverty  |  Kashmir’s shawl makers face dire struggles

Srinagar, July 21: Nestled along the Srinagar-Jammu National Highway, about 20 km from Lal Chowk, lies Kanihama village, a living testament to Kashmir's rich handloom heritage.

Known as the 'handloom village' or 'Kani Shawl village', this settlement of around 450 families is home to a centuries-old tradition now under threat.

Approximately 80 percent of Kanihama's residents are involved in weaving Kani Shawls, an art form Indigenous to the area that dates back several centuries.

However, the very artisans keeping this tradition alive are now struggling to survive.

Bashir Ahmad, a veteran artisan with 30 years of experience, expresses deep regret over his career choice.

“I'm earning only Rs 250 for working 10 hours a day,” Hamid laments. “We artisans owe money to banks and can't repay it. We're struggling to make ends meet.”

Ahmad's story is not unique.

Hundreds of artisans in Kanihama face similar hardships and their skills and dedication are inadequately rewarded.

Mushtaq Ahmad, a shawl maker for the past decade, says, “We're given just peanuts. Top businessmen and politicians wear these costly Pashmina shawls, but we highly skilled artisans aren't even earning the wages of unskilled labour.”

The creation of a Kani shawl is a painstaking process.

Depending on the intricacy of the design, an artisan may weave only a few centimetres per day, with a single shawl taking between 6 and 18 months to complete.

These shawls, made from high-grade Pashmina sourced from Ladakh, can cost anywhere from Rs 10,000 to Rs 3 lakh.

Despite the high market value of their products, artisans struggle to make a living wage.

Zahoor Ahmad Mir, a national award-winning Kani shawl artisan at Mir Arts at Nawakadal, shares his predicament: “I have a family of five, and despite winning a national award, I find it difficult to feed them because I earn only Rs 300 to 400 a day.”

The low wages are driving younger generations away from the craft.

Feroz Ahmad Mir, a 22-year veteran of Kani Shawl making, expresses his frustration: "We are not benefitting, despite our national awards and designs. Market prices are increasing, but we remain underpaid."

The artisans of Mir Arts are calling for change.

They demand a direct marketplace to sell their craft, free from the exploitation of middlemen.

Naseer, speaking on behalf of his fellow artisans, implores, "We demand that artisans should be provided with a platform to directly sell their craft, rather than middlemen milking our agony to make their fortunes."

As the looms of Kanihama continue to weave intricate patterns, they also weave a tale of struggle and resilience. The artisans’ plea is not just for their survival, but for the preservation of Kashmir's rich artistic heritage.