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Beating the Heat: Despite modernity, traditional Matka Kulfi still in demand

Braving odds, Kulfi sellers in Downtown carry on legacy
06:57 AM Aug 05, 2024 IST | Numan Bhat
beating the heat  despite modernity  traditional matka kulfi still in demand
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Srinagar, Aug 4: On the streets of Bohri Kadal in Downtown Srinagar, a sweet tradition keeps locals cool during the hot summer days. Matka Kulfi, a tasty traditional ice cream served in small pots, has been a favourite treat here for generations. The legacy began with Ghulam Ahmad Badoo, lovingly called Ama Buda, and continues today, bringing joy and employment to many.

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Ama Buda’s method of making Matka Kulfi involved slowly cooking milk and sugar with cardamom and saffron until it turned thick and creamy. This mixture was poured into clay pots, called matkas, and frozen. This traditional recipe has been passed down through the family, ensuring every bite of Matka Kulfi tastes just as it did decades ago.

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This summer, Srinagar is experiencing an intense heatwave, and Bohri Kadal area of Downtown has become a popular spot for those looking to cool off with a refreshing treat. People flock to the area to enjoy Matka Kulfi, which provides a perfect way to beat the heat. The local shops are bustling with activity, as families and friends gather to savour this traditional ice cream. The cool, creamy taste of Matka Kulfi offers a delightful escape from the scorching temperatures, making it a favorite summer indulgence in the city. Mumin Nabi, an 24-year-old ice cream seller, has been part of this tradition since he was a child. "I started helping my father sell Matka Kulfi when I was just ten," he recalls. "Now, it's my turn to carry on the legacy. It's not just a job; it's a way of life for us." Bilal takes great care in ensuring each pot is perfectly frozen and well-presented, honoring the craft passed down through his family.

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To attract more customers, Kulfi-makers have introduced a variety of new flavors, from classic Kulfi to Kesar Kulfi and Dry Fruit Kulfi. They still use traditional methods, just like Ama used to. Additionally, they've updated the presentation by adding noodles on top of the Kulfi to enhance the taste. These changes bring a fresh twist to a beloved classic, blending tradition with innovation to offer something new and exciting for everyone.

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Farooq Ahmad, a local resident from Khanyar, says, "every summer, I come here with my children. I used to come here with my father, and now I bring my kids. It's a tradition that connects us to our past and gives us something to look forward to every year. The taste of Matka Kulfi hasn't changed a bit; it's a comforting reminder of my childhood. Sharing this experience with my children creates new memories while keeping the old ones alive."

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The increasing number of visitors to Bohri Kadal has not only kept the kulfi tradition alive but has also turned the area into a lively marketplace. Young boys like Bilal find seasonal jobs and a sense of pride in their work. "It's tough work, especially in this heat, but seeing the smiles on people's faces makes it all worth it," Bilal says with a smile.

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Zahoor Ahmad, a shopkeeper at Lal Chowk in Srinagar, says, "every evening, on my way home, I stop by Bohri Kadal for Matka Kulfi. It's a small tradition I look forward to. The creamy taste reminds me of my childhood and brings back fond memories. It's not just about enjoying ice cream; it's a way to relax and reconnect with the past after a busy day at work. Each visit is a little moment of joy and nostalgia, and it makes the end of my day feel special."

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Matka Kulfi shops have popped up all over the city, becoming popular spots, especially in the summer. These shops, which focus on making ice cream with traditional methods, have gained a lot of attention alongside big brands. As temperatures rise, these local artisan ice cream shops attract crowds eager to enjoy a cool, classic treat. The popularity of Matka Kulfi reflects a growing trend where people are drawn to both its nostalgic flavor and the unique, handcrafted approach of these smaller, specialised vendors.

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