An Exciting Experience
The annual picnic with all the colleagues who run our two Heart Clinics in the valley - “Gauri Heart Clinic” and “Prasad Joo Khan Heart Centre” - was eluding us this year. The month of April and May went with the Pahalgam massacre and its aftermath the “Operation Sindoor”. This was followed by the devastating floods from which we got some respite towards the middle of September. I had an invitation to visit Poonch city in Jammu and Kashmir which we capitalized upon. Mr K D Maini, a retired KAS officer, a historian and a writer very well respected in Poonch was our local host. We decided to take advantage of a long weekend around Gandhi Jayanti and Dussehra and made this program.
The decision to visit Poonch, the historic town nestled in the Pir Panjal range of Jammu and Kashmir, felt like a quest to uncover a hidden jewel. But the journey itself, a breathtaking drive from Shopian via the legendary Mughal Road and the high mountain pass of Peer Ki Gali, was as rewarding as the destination. The Mughal Road actually extends from Heerpora in Shopian in the Kashmir Valley to Bafliaz in the Poonch district, connecting the two regions via the Pir Panjal Pass. It was an experience that wove together stunning natural beauty, a profound sense of history, and the gentle rhythm of a simple, harmonious life. Nine of us started our journey in two vehicles, a jeep and our cardiac centre’s spacious ambulance. The adventure began from Shopian, the Apple Town, and quickly led us onto the historic Mughal Road. This route, once the passage of Mughal emperors journeying to Kashmir, is a living relic. The road, which acts as an alternative link between the Kashmir Valley and the districts of Poonch and Rajouri, starts its ascent, winding through dense apple orchards and thick pine and deodar forests. The air grew cooler and crisper with every upward turn, carrying the sweet scent of pine sap and wildflowers.
The climax of the road journey is the majestic Peer Ki Gali, a mountain pass situated at an altitude of approximately 11,500 feet. The pass, also known as the ‘Crown of the Pir Panjal range,’ is a sight to behold. We were greeted by vast, rolling alpine meadows, known locally as Pir Marg, surrounded by snow-capped peaks that seemed to pierce the sky. The pass is named after a revered Sufi saint, Sheikh Ahmed Karim, whose small shrine, a beacon of spiritual tranquillity, stands at the summit. The sheer scale of the Pir Panjal range, with its rugged, untamed beauty, instils a sense of profound awe. Here, the panoramic vista stretches miles in every direction, a tapestry of green valleys and rocky highlands. We spent some time at the top which has several small eateries selling hot fresh Kababs, tea and small snacks and few of us paid our obeisance at the shrine.
Descending from Peer Ki Gali towards Poonch, the landscape softened, transforming into a gentler, more pastoral setting. The road passed through picturesque spots like Aliabad Sarai, an ancient Mughal inn, and the serene village of Behramgala, known for its confluence of streams. Our next stop was for a lunch at Chandi Mar, which has a tourism department’s good restaurant alongside a rivulet. An hours’ drive and we were at Suran Kote town the gateway to Poonch. Soon, the Suran River appeared, a ribbon of sparkling water cutting through the valley, eventually leading us into the heart of Poonch Town.
Poonch town itself is steeped in a rich and complex history, its narrative stretching back centuries. Mentioned in ancient texts, it was once a sovereign state, an important hill kingdom known for fine tea and good horses, according to the 6th-century Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang. Later, it served as a vital junction on the Mughal Road, evident in the remnants of forts and sarais (inns) like the historic Poonch Fort. The town’s past has seen the influence of Hindu rulers, the Mughals, the Sikhs, and the Dogra’s, with each era leaving an indelible mark on its architecture and cultural fabric. The last one being the Moti Mahal Exploring the old town with its blend of styles felt like turning the pages of a history book. Moti Mahal is a historic palace built between 1926 and 1936 by the Dogra Rajas, featuring Scottish-style architecture. Commissioned by Raja Sukhdev Singh and completed by Raja Jagat Dev Singh. It is with the Army these days.
What truly defines the experience of Poonch, however, is its social soul—a palpable communal harmony and the simplicity of life. The district has historically been a melting pot, and this legacy of coexistence is still vibrant. People of different faiths and communities, including Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs, Gujjars, and Bakarwals, live together, sharing traditions and celebrating each other’s festivals with warmth and enthusiasm. We reached there on Dussehra evening and saw the burning of the effigies of Ravana and his two brothers. I was struck by the fact that the sizeable crowd had lot of Muslim families enjoying the festivities.
The absence of hurried commercialism lends a tranquil air to the town. Life moves at an unhurried pace, dictated by the seasons and the close-knit community ties. We also visited the Shri Budha Amarnath Ji temple, an ancient Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva located in Rajpura, Mandi tehsil, Poonch district, Jammu and Kashmir. The temple is situated at the confluence of the Nallah Gagri and Pulsta Nadi streams, and is famous for its white stone Shivlinga and the annual Budha Amarnath Yatra and Raksha Bandhan Mela.
The natural beauty of Poonch surrounds and embraces the town, earning it the moniker of “Mini Kashmir.” It is a land of adorable scenes defined by its waterways and hills. Numerous streams and nallahs, like the Loran Nallah, flow down from the Pir Panjal, feeding the Suran River. Places like Mandi, situated at the confluence of streams, offers a cool, tranquil retreat. The surrounding hills are a paradise of lush green meadows (margs or dhoks), dense coniferous forests, and hidden alpine lakes like the magnificent Nandansar.
The distant sound of cascading water, the deep green of the valleys, and the protective, snow-dusted peaks create a sense of perfect, untouched wilderness. Even the famous Noori Chamb waterfall, named after Mughal Queen Noor Jahan, adds a touch of royal grandeur to the natural canvas. A journey to Poonch is more than just a scenic drive; it is a profound cultural and historical encounter. From the exhilarating heights of Peer Ki Gali to the simplicity of life in a town rich in heritage and surrounded by nature’s masterpiece, Poonch offers a rare glimpse into a beautiful corner of the world, where the echoes of history harmonize with the tranquillity of the mountains.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director Gauri Kaul Foundation
