A delicacy under threat
For the people of Kashmir, the love for meat is more than a culinary preference; it is a fundamental part of cultural identity and social life. From the elaborate feasts of the Wazwan to the daily staple of mutton, meat has a deep-rooted significance in celebrations, rituals, and family gatherings. This love is across all the communities. Most Kashmiri Pandits, except on a few days in a month, would love to have mutton. In general, they will invite guests for meals only if it is a meat permissible day. Chicken and fish although consumed are not the preferred meats. Meat for Kashmiri means mutton. Kashmiri cuisine is famous for its rich, meat-centric dishes.
The Wazwan, a multi-course banquet, is an art form cantered on various mutton preparations. Dishes like Goshtaba, Rista, Rogan Josh, Yakhni and several others. “Patchie” (Paya or trotters) are not just food items but expressions of hospitality and communal bonds. This culinary heritage has created a consistently high demand for meat, making it a lucrative market.
This strong, ingrained demand, however, has recently become a point of vulnerability, as unscrupulous practices have led to the introduction of substandard and potentially dangerous meat products into the local market. Recently officials seized more than 11,600 kg of imported rotten meat leading to a big turmoil on the social media and newspapers. This was followed by seizure of a large store of Payas products made of this kind of imported meat; those were being sold in several road side restaurants at very low costs, attracting consumers. The challenge now is to protect this cherished tradition from exploitation, ensuring public health, while preserving the integrity of a cultural cornerstone.
These products, often imported from outside J&K, are a stark contrast to the fresh, locally-sourced meat that is traditionally preferred. The use of these substandard products for dishes like Paye represents a significant ethical and health concern, exploiting consumers who rely on these traditional foods. The consequences of this practice are twofold: a risk to public health and a blow to consumer trust. Consuming spoiled meat can lead to severe food-borne illnesses, and the lack of transparency in the supply chain makes it difficult for consumers to be confident in the safety of their food. Economically, this exploitation unfairly profits a few at the expense of many, undermining the livelihoods of local, honest butchers and bakarwals. The solution to this complex problem requires a multi-faceted approach involving government regulation, consumer education, and community action.
First and foremost, the government must implement, and rigorously enforce, stricter food safety standards. This includes regular, unannounced inspections of meat processing facilities and markets, as well as clear labelling requirements that indicate the origin and date of slaughter. Heavy penalties for selling spoiled or uncertified meat would act as a powerful deterrent. Alongside this, a public awareness campaign is crucial. Consumers need to be educated on how to identify fresh, high-quality meat and the potential dangers of purchasing from unverified sources. This can be done through public service announcements, social media, and community workshops. Omar Abdullah, the CM of J&K, has announced several such measures.
Finally, community-led initiatives can play a vital role. Encouraging the formation of local cooperatives and supporting small-scale farmers who practice ethical and hygienic butchery can help rebuild the supply chain from the ground up. This not only ensures fresher meat but also empowers local communities and preserves traditional practices. By working together—with the government providing oversight, consumers demanding quality, and communities supporting local producers—the people of Kashmir can reclaim their culinary heritage from the shadows of exploitation. This will protect not only their health but also a fundamental part of what makes our culture so unique and vibrant.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director, Gauri Kaul Foundation
